Shoe.



A. H. PRENZEL.

SHOE.

APPl-ICATION FILED SEPT. 23. I914.

Patented Mar. 2631917 Avvavraq ADAM H. PRENZEL, OF HALIFAX,PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIG NOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON,NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW J ERSEY.

SHOE.

Specification of Letters Patent,

I itented Mar. 20, 1917.

Original application filed October 12, 1912, Serial No. 725,476. Dividedand :his application filed September To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, ADAM ll. Pennant, a citizen of the United States,residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania,have invented certain ,Inr pro vements in Shoes, of which the following(.leseription, in connection with the aeeo1npa-nying drawings, is aS]J(.E(flll(.lltl()ll, like reference characters on the drawingsindicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention. relates to shoes and is herein shown and descri ed forpurposes of illustration in its relation to shoesot' the type conu'uonlytormc-zl stitch -down shoes.

The manufiu-ture oi stitclrdown shoes has been confinedhereiolbrechiefly and almost entirely to the cheaper grades. This hasbeen due largely to the very imperfect conformation of tho. upper to thelast in shi'ies of this t'pe, stitch-down shoes comparing unfavoral ilywith shoes of othertypes and particularly the better grades of shoes ofother types not only in their original appearance but by reason of thefret that, as heretofore nnule, stitch-doWn shilies have not kept theirshape and appearancesatisfactorilyduring wear.

'lhoigeneral object of the present invention is to provide an ii'nprovedshoe of" this type which, without being materially more expensive tomanufacture: will compare favorabl w t 1 the better grades of shoes-ofother types n; =1 which will retain its good ap iearance and continue tofit properly eycn aiteiilong wear, to the end that a stitch-down shoemay be J1' .)vided. adapted to he nuinufacturecl not only in the bettergrades ofchildrens vand infants sizes and boys and mens sizes but alsoin 'nnsses" and womens sizes.

More particularly the invention anns to provide a shoe the upper ofwhich is properly coi'iformed to the last and permanently securedexactly in final lasted position, thereby iroviding a neat, stylish shoewhich will compare favorably even with goodwgr'ades of Wclted shoes andwhich will retain satistactorilyits original shape and ap ea'rance asthe shoe is worn.

n accordance with these objects, the upper of the illustrated shoe whichhas a in appearance and wearing qualities tacks, or takin flange.outturned upon the upper face of the mar- Serlul No. 863,128.

gin of a flexible sole is pcrn'iancntly secured to the solo in itsoriginal lasted condition by staples of line wire passing through theupper in the vertex oi the angle formed by the body of the upper and theoutturncd flange of the upper.

In the accompanying drawings,--

Figure l is a iorsm-etive view of a sole which may conveniently be usedin making the shoe ol' this invention;

Fig. 2 shows a portion of a suitable means for lasting the shoe;

Fig. 2-, shows a fllUl' fter it has been lasted and hetero the sole hasbeen finally secured to the upper,

Fig. 4 shows the completed shoe; and

Fig. 5 is a se tional detail showing the locationof the different partsof the shoe and the fasteningo which unite these parts,

The upper l oi the illustrated shoe, which, as above stated, is of thetype commonly termed a stitch-down shoe, has ail outturned flange 3overlying the upper face of the margin ii of a flexible sole indicatedgenerally at 5. The upper l, is permanently secured to the sole 5 in itso iginal lasted condition by staples of fine wire passing throughtheupper l 'in the vertex of the angle 10 formed by the body of iheupper l and the outturned flange 3, ti e outturned flange 3 beingentirely outside the line of junction, inoln cated at 7, of the nnerface 9 of the upper l withthesole 5 tnd the line in which the upper 1 isso secured by the staples to the sole a, being, as will be also appa ntfromo]')eration by which the sole'is secured to the upper so than theymay remain in the finished shoe. Thus the staples not only serve aslasting fnstenin s, taking the place of temporarylauting fliistenings,such as curing the upper as it is last exactly in the place of cement,which .fjhas heretofore eon commonly sod, and sefinal lasted position,but also permanentlysecure the upper precisely in that final lastedposition, insurin' not only initial roper conformation Q the upper tothe 'ast, but further insuring that the upper inclined to the face ofthe sole 5-and extend obliquely inwardly beneath the last 8. 'This notonly insures that the legs of the staples will be entirel out of the wayof the stitches .or other astening means sub.- sequently employed inattaching the sole to the upper, but the legs of the staples extend intothe sole 5 in directions substantially transverse to'the directions ofpull of the stretched upper, thus increasing the holding power ofthestaples, the inclination and length of the legs of the staples of theillustrated shoe being such that they do not penetrate the tread face ofthe sole 5. It will be seen that the described location of the staplesis not only adapted to the construction of shoes in which the sole 5. towhich the upper is shaped is the outersole, maximum holding power of thestaples being secured without having the fastenings appear upon thetread face of the sole oi the finished shoe, but at the same-time thedescribed construction is well adapted for a double soled shoe; that.is, a shoe having an outersole attached to the sole 5. It will beappreciated that, although the -described construction has markedadvanthe legs of the staples may extend either obliquelyor-substantially vertically into the sole 5, either terminating in thesaid sole or extending tl1rough;-' -the sole and being clenched upon theouter face of the sole as is a. frequent practice especially when theshoe has an outerso'le attached to the solo A preferred mechanismforprogressively lasting the successive portions of the shoe u u i W Iupper and inserting staples of line wire in -the vertex of the angle ofthe upper stcp by-stcp as'th'c shoe us lasted to secure the upperpermanently in. lasted position as above described, 'is-disclomd andclaimed in inyfic'trpendi 1g application; onwhich application LettersPatent No. 1,117,087 were granted Novcml)er 10, 19l-l,.for improvw mentsin machines for lasting boots and shoes. A portion of this nuu-hinc isshown .in- Fig. 2, the parts thereshown being rolatiicly movable, asfully set forth in said Letters Patent. to oll'crl lhr lorrlng of lhe filvl'olifih'l'. porLlons oi the upper slop b- \'-slop into the anglebetween the last and thefsole mar m and the securing of said portions oft e upperin lasted position-..

To provide support for the upper upon the inside of the shoe so that theupper will not tendto break away from the welt and thus leave anundesirable crack, the sole 5 tion 2 which does not extend beyond theedge of the last and'aflords thedesired upper outturncd upon the upperface there of. Such support for the upper may also be provided by aninsole which extends only may be shouldered to provide a raised por-" tothe edge of the last. \Vhcn a shouldered sole such as that shown in 'lig. 1 is utilized, it will be observed -thut the staples pass throughthe angle 10 of the upper into the sole in the angle 12 between theshoulder 4 and the sole margin 6. It will be understood, however, thatin its broader aspects the invention:comprehends a shoe in which theprojectingmargin (3 of the sole .5 lies flush with the upper portion ofthe remainder of the solo. in that case, the staples pass through theangle 1) of the upper into the angle between the last 8 and the solemargin (3. As shown in Fig. 5, the upper of the finished shoe maybotrimmcd back from thccdgo of the solo a short distance in order thatit may not interfere with finishing the edge of the solo. and the shoemay have a welt 1R superposed upon the outturned flange 3 oi the upper.the welt being of a width sullieicnt to extend to the (ulge of the soleand bciin )refcru'blv thicker .u mu

its outer edge than upon its inner edge so that it will reach down overthe cdgcof theoutturnod flange 3 of the upper ll] contact with the upperfa e oi the sole margin 6, lhoroby closing up any gap \VllH'l] might-becaused by interposition oi the upper be tween the welt and solo andproviding atight edge which may be linisbcd readily in the suok'omling(-dgo finishing ommtiohsi, the

welt ['8 being secured to the solo by stitches 20 which also passthrough the upper, as

shown in Fig. 5.

'llunovel process of making shoes involved in the production oi theshmrof the present invention is not clainul heroinbut iug application.on which Letters Patent I\' o. Lili'JlHti were granted November 10,

1914, of which epplication the present epvertex of the an plieation is adivision; s y

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby letters Patent of the United States is 1- 1. A stitchdown shoecomprising aiflexihis sole, and an upper having a flan e outturned uponthe upper-face o the so e margin, the upper being secured to the sole inits original lasted condition bysteples of fine wire passing through theupper inlthe le-fo'rmed by the body of the upper and said ontturnedflange, and said outturned flange bein entirely. outside the linefof,junction of 't e inner face of the upper with the sole.

"2. A stitch-down shoe comprising a flexibiefsole, and an upper having aflange out-' line, of 'unction of turned upon the upper face of the solemargin, the upper being v its original lasted 'ooiditionby staples offine ,Wire passing thro 1gb the upper in the vertex of the angleEor'lned by the body of the upper and said ontt'urned flange, the linein which the upp Sr is so secured being of approximately upperivith thesole; i In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this speci-iication in the presence of. two subscrlbing witne: kses.

AD in 1. PRENZELT Witnesses: i v

"L. W. Rims, g G. W. Simurz secured to the sole in' 25 the Seine contouras the tie. inner face of the

